April 15

Today was set aside for one of our must sees in Cape Town, Cape Point, but before heading out, Gila had to have her coffee infusion. I have always called it the Cape of Good Hope and when Shelley kept asking us about going to Cape Point, I didn't really understand what she was talking about.

As soon as we arrived we saw baboons. I was initially upset that one had moved before I caught it on my camera, but I should have had no worries. There were many baboons around. The first one was sitting, back to me, on the ledge above the gift shop. Later, one sauntered across in front of the shop as if it owned the world. In the parking lot, there were baboons sitting on car roofs or hanging from the car windows. They have learned that where there are people, there is food and were hoping that a window was left open. They are totally used to people, but there are signs everywhere indicating that baboons are dangerous wild animals.

There was a good view of the mountains from the cafe's terrace but the main attraction was going to the top where the lighthouse stood. There was a beautiful gently sloped pathway with stairs to go by foot, but we chose to go on the funicular. The top had magnificent vista points and steep stairs to climb to the lighthouse, too steep for me to try. We did take a short hike around to the other side of the mountain to look at everything from yet another perspective. The paths are beautifully constructed with stone and lined with numerous native shrubs and flowers. There was a lot of aloe vera that was in bloom as well.

We browsed the gift shop and then came down the funicular again, this time to look for other animals. In the fields in the distance we could see some animals grazing. Because we had been to the Natural History museum and had seen the full array of antelopes, we were able to surmise that we were looking at elands (pronounced earlant) The weather was quite changeable but when the sun did emerge, it was pleasant though windy. Unfortunately Gila was using her cellphone without the protective case. She dropped it and the entire screen shattered. I guess someone I know will be getting a new 6 iPhone.

We opted to go to the local scratch patch in Simon's Town next. What a fascinating place. We able to pick a bagful of tumbled gemstones from an area that was filled with the stones. Shelley bought us each a guide to figure out which stones we had and then we all moved to the Rock Shop and the Gift Shop. You could buy the stones displayed there on a per kilo basis. Shelley got some stones that will work perfectly with her jewelry designs. I picked some black and clear beads, already with holes to make my own necklace. We couldn't resist the gift shop either. Our visit was scheduled to be thirty minutes in total. Because we were so taken by the stones, we long overstayed the thirty minutes we had allotted. Our plan had been to visit the cheetah outreach, but because of how late in the afternoon it was, it was unlikely to still be open so we all agreed to an early dinner and early evening to allow us the time to pack and still have enough sleep for our travel day. We found a local Ocean Basket and had more yummy fish, no alcohol and no dessert. We were home by 8:15 on our last night in Cape Town.

April 14

The weather today called for rain, so we planned it as an indoor museum day. However, the weatherman must have been looking at his instruments, not out the window. It was another beautiful day, little wind, temperatures in the low 20s and glorious sunshine. Nevertheless we were both very keen to have our taste lof the museums here.

We started at the waterfront again with the first stop at iFix, a counter where a new battery for Gila's phone could be installed. During the wait, Shelley took us to a wonderful place for breakfast called tasha's. The decor was bright and airy, white tables and umbrellas. Inside empty clay pots hung upside down from the ceiling. Again, the food and the service were outstanding. 

After we picked up Gila's phone we headed to the diamond museum. The name of the place was Shimanski's. Not only was it a museum but it was also a diamond retailer.in order tone a receptionist, guide or salesperson you have to be drop dead beautiful. They all wear a uniform that consisted of a grey pin striped blazer, a crisp white shirt and a dark, straight skirt. At first we were taken through a large room lined with photographs of the history of diamond mining in South Africa. As well, there were crystal models to show the different stages in cutting the facets of a diamond.

However, we were more interested in seeing the the process as it was happening. Needless to say the security was very tight. The diamond cutters worked behind glass and we were constantly under the supervision of a guide. Every display case was locked. Watching the diamond cutters was fascinating. The diamond cutter held a diamond in a special holder. To cut a facet he put the edge of the diamond against a diamond cutting wheel for a micro second before examining the stone under a loupe and repeating the process once again. It is long painstaking work. From there we moved into the showroom. It was literally dazzling. Shelley actually picked out the engagement ring and wedding band she would like Daniel to buy for her. All the information including the price as well. He cannot go wrong unless he loses the piece of paper.

Our next stop was the Jewish Museum. As one would expect, there was a security check and X-rays of bags that were being brought in. The museum is actually a complex. The first building was the Garden Synagogue  built in 1856. It still has a practising congregation of about 900 people. The building looks very much like the Portuguese Synagogue in Amsterdam, except for the stained glass windows. There are a few rose windows with a mogan David in the centre. The windows in the sanctuary are only two years old and were designed by a congregant who is also a doctor. He has left an incredible legacy for this congregation. There are twelve windows in all, six on each side. Each window represents a holiday. Shabbat Lag B'omer and Tubishvat are included. 

From there we moved on to the main museum. It tells the complete story of the Jews in South Africa and the prejudice held by the East Indian Company. It included a walk through model of an African shtetl. We didn't spend much time there because I was eager to get to the Holocaust museum where I knew there was a picture of my dad. The docent was not sure if we could see the exhibit because a round of load shedding was expected. When I explained why it was important to see it, someone ran to get a flashlight and the door was unlocked for us. Knowing the picture is there is totally different from seeing it in person. It brought me to tears. Gila had never met my father, but had seen photographs of him. She was able to find the picture of my father without any help.  One of the museum administrators came with a camera and photographed me pointing to my dad's picture. I told her a little more of his story and that we had already sent. She was going to check it but we will stay in touch. The story of my dad is only the second family they have of all 600 photos and they will now be using it in their educational program. I was thankful that Gila and Shelley indulged me. I had a look at the rest of the display and it was done in an interesting manner, comparing Nazism to Apartheid.

After not too quick a snack in the cafe, we headed to the National Gallery. Except for an installation called the Refusal of Time, the exhibit was entirely underwhelming. The only impressive part was one room where group quilts told the African legends about death and the sun, stars and moon. Layers of cloth were used in some places to provide more depth. I would have loved to photograph it but no photos were allowed.

The Natural History Museum was on the other side of the park, called the Company Garden because it was within the East India Company buildings. From there we could also see the back of the Garden synagogue we had visited. By the time we reached the museum, there were only twenty-five minutes left before closing and the staff let us in without the fees. It is a fabulous museum that shows the animal life in South Africa. The whale hall is most interesting as the skeletons of a variety of whales are hung from the ceiling. Our museum rush had tired us out and we sat enjoying the garden for a while before finding a place to eat. 




We went back to the waterfront for dinner at Quay Four, seafood once again. This meal was fabulous. I had a combination of langoustine, prawns and mussels that was just as good as the meal we had at Willoughby's except not quite as expensive. Shelley and Gila had problems with the custard part of the amarula brûlée. I didn't. Gila made hers more palatable with a shot of amarula. Wise move.

Shelley drove us home just after nine. Another very full day.

April 13

Among all the other wonderful things Shelley has managed is the weather. Although rain has been forecast for several days now, the sky has remained blue sprinkled only with some amazing fluffy cloud formations. 

Gila needed her her coffee this morning, so once she was ready, we headed out for a small coffee place on Main called Brew. Gila finally had a delicious cappuccino and chocolate muffin. I still felt rocky from the day before and chose just to keep her company. Today was our trip to Robben Island. I had been coughing all night and Gila was concerned about my catching pneumonia on the ferry across, but there was no question that I would go on this outing.


We returned to the Waterfront for the ride across. The sailing was very smooth and provided us with the view of Cape Town from the water. The mountains, especially Table Mountain predominate. The city sprawls, glittering. A fog appears to be slowly climbing the lower reaches of the mountain. We see otters and  seals swimming in the harbour and a southern right whale with its baby further out. The entrance to the island is foreboding as the entire pier is lined with pointed and conical concrete blocks. It looks like the solid form of barbed wire.

As grim as it was, it had a sanitized feeling, spartan but clean and orderly. Our guide was a former inmate of the prison. In total, fourteen of the guides had been imprisoned on the island. I love the irony. The man was very welcoming and seemed proud to be able to tell the visitors of the difficult and unfair way of life the inmates were subjected to. He didn't talk at us, but rather walked among us and tried to make us interact with him as well. He was able to make his presentation in a light humerous manner. He described his crime and those of most of the others as terrorism but made it clear that these men were not terrorists. An interesting distinction. Although I know he was speaking English, he was very difficult to understand and Shelley had to translate for us a number of times. We were told of the reception of inmates, the way in which the guards tried to create enmity among the prisoners by giving some proper clothing and others only shorts and sandals, how the Asians and coloureds received slightly better food than the blacks, the methods of torture and the solidarity that developed among the prisoners nonetheless. We walked through the the different cell blocks, saw Mandela's cell and walked through the various work yards. The passageways were dark and narrow, the cells claustrophobically small and everything was surrounded by barbed wire. The daily life there was in direct opposition to the beautiful day and the tourists enjoying an excursion. 

The second half of our visit consisted of a bus tour of the island. Although Gila would have dearly loved to have gotten off the bus at each stop for photos, she had to content herself with shots through the window. The guide kindly explained that the tour was only 45 minutes in length but if everyone left the bus for pictures, it would take until seven in the evening. Robben Island was once a leper colony. We stopped at the leper graveyard that seemed well maintained compared to the few markers of deceased prisoners. Most families were allowed to take home the bodies of their loved ones for burial.

We saw houses built for the guards and for the military, a building that housed the school, the warden's house and the church. There is also a power generating facility on the island meaning that it is not subject to load shedding, the temporary planned blackouts due to high usage. In all, there are about 250 residents on the island today. Along with the sights we were told the history of the island as far back as the mid sixteen hundreds when it was a prison for the Portuguese. Although the stories of the conditions were horrendous, it did not have the same effect as my visits to concentration camps where the purpose was not to debase inmates but to murder them.

We had been due to return by 3:00 but the boat was delayed because it could not sail until it was full. Our plans then underwent a slight adjustment. Instead of having lunch at the waterfront, we drove right to Table Mountain intending to have a snack there and view the city from the top of the mountain. As we drove, a front was moving in and the wispy clouds just kissing the mountains were becoming heavy cloud cover enveloping the mountain.

I had a ginger iced tea and a sandwich to hold me until dinner and by the time we began to circle the mountain top for bird's eye views of Cape Town, the fog had already limited the visibility. There are numerous picture with houses popping through gaps in the clouds. The plants have been allowed to grow all around the walkways and lookout areas have been incorporated on all sides of the mountain. The one animal we saw was called a dassie. It is about the size of a bunny but resembles a very furry rodent. We were told that the closest relative was the elephant. Given the size differential, I find that hard to believe. As we came down the cable car an hour or so later, the city became visible once more but now under a cloud covered sky.

For dinner we went to Mama Africa, a restaurant with live music. This evening the entertainment was provided by an African marimba group. Unfortunately, our table was at the back and the noise in the restaurant made it difficult to fully appreciate the music. The menu was all traditional African food, but the absolute best was the dessert, banana flambé. It consisted of a banana fried in butter and covered with an amarula sauce and ice cream. It was brought to the table aflame and the fusion of the hot liqueur sauce, the sweet fried bananas, and frozen ice cream was intense and delicious. I am looking to buy a bottle at the duty free shop to take home with me. By nine o'clock I could barely keep my eyes open and before my head even hit the pillow I was fast asleep.

April 11 - 12

My plan was to write about each day's events each evening, but until today I was stuffed up with a cold and extraordinarily tired by the time we got back to our flat. Tonight is the first evening that I have not felt dead on my feet, but now I see that writing every few days will be quite enough.

One of the interesting customs(?) is to pay someone to watch your car when you park on the beach. At intersections there are many African Nationals begging for money either for themselves or for some cause. Even walking down the street you are constantly approached to buy some craft or make a donation. These people are very insistent and you must provide a very firm no to stop them.

Saturday, April 11, Daniel and Shelley's mom Brigid joined us for a tour of wineries in Stellenbosch. It was another perfect day in terms of weather. We left at eight in the morning so our plan was to stop for breakfast on the road. Daniel was headed for the Hillcrest Berry Farm. The site overlooking the planted grape vines was beautiful and we chose to eat outside on the terrace. Waffles were served with sugared water instead of maple syrup but the addition of a fruit compote and ice cream made up for it. Although the food was wonderful, the service surprisingly was not.

Then we visited Delheim for wine testing. Truth be told, it does not take a lot of wine to make me tipsy. After tasting three whites (I especially liked Chenin Blanc) a rose and two reds I was more than just a bit light headed. The plan had been to visit a number of wineries, but given how I felt after six tastings, I would have had to be carried to the car if I had anymore. Instead we visited a brandy distillery. The reception/tasting area was like a men's club in an English manor, high back leather armchairs and sofas. 

By now, we were hungry for lunch and Daniel drove us to a highly touted winery for lunch. We were disappointed that the kitchen had already closed and were directed the the deli for food. As soon as I ate it, picnic style, it not sit well in my stomach, but now we determined to to watch sunset on a beach. We arrived at Noordehoek just in time to see the change of colours as the sun sank into the sea. Daniel is very knowledgeable about both geography and geology and was able to point out where the limestone turned into sandstone. There is something primeval in the sound of the surf crashing. Add the families spending time together and dogs running through the sand, for an almost idyllic evening. 

The way back to Cape Town was on a very windy road. All along, my stomach was queasy and I kept swallowing to keep the bile down, but without any warning, I began to throw up. Daniel pulled over but not before I had made a mess of both my clothing and the car. The feeling that a serious cold was coming on certainly did not help. How embarrassing! 

Because I was not well, we planned on a late pick up on Sunday morning. We used the time to visit a pharmacy looking for something to relieve my cough and stuffy nose. The pharmacist was very helpful. When I asked for cough syrup, he checked if I was on any hypertension medication before suggesting something. It was still before before coffee so we stopped at a place called 65 on Main for coffee and breakfast. Ironically the coffee was instant but in her desperation for caffeine, Gila drank two cups.

We got back at the flat just as Shelley arrived. The plan was to drop us off at a beach on another picture perfect day while Shelley took the car to detail it due to my unfortunate accident the night before. Is there a beach in this city that is not breathtaking? Camp Bay Beach was in a small inlet and protected the Lion Head Mountain. The area where we parked ourselves was surrounded by boulders. The sight and sound of the waves crashing against the rocks was the perfect backdrop for the children playing and digging in the pools left with each surge of waves. Gila enjoyed herself taking photographs and sketching the surf. I tried to read but the brightness of the sun was too invasive and the constant coming and going of Africans selling water, ice cream, jewelry, hats, painted bowls and carved ebony tv type tables was too distracting. I was not feeling well and just chilling on the beach was a stressless way to pass a few hours.

When Shelley arrived with a clean car, we crossed the street to eat in an Italian restaurant, lovely service once again, and then we headed off to Kirstenbosch, the botanical garden. Each place we have visited is more breathtaking than the previous one. Beautiful expanses of grass separated the groves of native trees and plants ponds and birds. Purple flowers seemed to predominate, but the trees were most amazing. Walking among the trees was like being in an enchanted forest. I almost expected to see the Disney castle in the next clearing. The trunks and branches twisted and spread out like bony witch's fingers. It was only the clear blue sky that dissipated any sense of dread.

The most memorable part of the park was the tree canopy walkway. Although it was man made, it blended beautifully with the nature it it carried you through. The walkway consisted of thin wooden slats curving it's way through the tree tops.the curvature was mirrored in the rails on either side. There was a slight tremor caused by the those strolling on the walkway, but not enough to trigger my fear of heights. It was a short visit, but provided the weather is good, we will return Wednesday evening to watch the screening of Monty Python and the Meaning of life.

The first restaurant we went to for dinner was extraordinarily noisy with a throbbing electronic beat accompanying the sounds of people talking. So we moved to a hotel a block away for a quiet, sedate and elegant South African dinner. Gila had springbok and I tried the kingklip, a native white fish. Delicious!!!

In the time that we have been here, I have noticed impeccable service in almost every restaurant. Every staff member has waited on the tables with the most welcoming smile. Someone comes by regularly to check if you are happy with your food or want anything else. With the exception of Hillcrest Berry Farm, staff has been most accommodating and attentive. The other thing that I have noticed, is the beauty of so many of the African Nationals, both male and female. Their skin is ebony in colour and offset by dazzling white smiles. The braiding of the hair, the warmth of the eyes, the fluidity of the gait are so very enchanting. The white South African women are also very becoming, but in my eyes, they seem to lack the grace of the black women.

I was wrong. I don't seem to be able to summarize our days several at a time. Our Monday and Tuesday itinerary will follow when I am less tired.

April 10

The weather was beautiful but we did not make it to Robben Island. When we got to the ticket wicket, we learned that all the sailings were fully booked. We bought our tickets for Monday's first sailing and then enjoyed the Victoria and Alfred wharf. What a beautiful high end  complex it was! Zara, Apple, diamond outlets, Aldo and many others. There were many restaurants around the outside perimeter, many of them with outdoor terraces.

We stopped into a wonderful curio shop where I was able to to buy some souvenirs. The store was filled with carvings, masks, paintings, painted stone bowls, beaded statues, bowls and jewelry, musical instruments, music, photographs just to name a few. And the prices were very reasonable for a tourist venue.

Lunch was at a diner called Surf. The logo on the menu was an American Indian in full headdress. Very American style food, but the Greek salad and the Caesar salad all contained the same vegetables. There were olives and feta cheese 
in the Greek and croutons and chicken in the Caesar, but they came undressed. Supermarket dressings in a bottle had to do. Nevertheless, I hadn't had salad since i left home and I enjoyed the change.

We did some fine tuning of our itinerary. We cancelled the accommodations in Port Elizabeth and booked a room in Jeffery's Bay instead. It will reduce the driving time to East London and it has a spectacular beach for surfing. Being further north, I am hoping that the water will be warmer than what we already have experienced. I'd love to experience the surf without becoming numb with the cold. 

After lunch we did some more exploring. There was a ferris wheel similar to but smaller  than the one in London. A radio station was transmitting on site. Electric BMWs were on display. The trees were draped with intricate beaded blankets. It was a perfect tourist destination. One of the pavilions was filled with the creative work of Africans. Ranging from paintings to clothing and from glassware to a wide variety of jewelry. We had found this craft market on the way to the aquarium. Just before we turned into the aquarium we passed by a booth where African braiding was done. I had thought about braiding my hair on the plane to prevent sporting the Jewfro look. It was a perfect solution for keeping my hair under control. Had I thought about it a little more and had Gila not encouraged me I would have walked away and not given into the impulse. One minute I was chatting with the two Angolian women doing the plaiting and the next minute I was sitting in a chair having my hair divided into many sections and plaited tightly from the bottom up. I had suggested that Shelley and Gila go ahead to the Aquarium, but Gila true to form photographed and videoed my experience. Gila mentioned that her hair was too short and thin for braids, but Sylvie convinced her to get ten small braids made with extensions around her head. Hurray! I wasn't the only one to act on impulse. Shelley then in the spirit of solidarity, had one small braid put in across the front.



I was shocked when it was done and I looked in the mirror. I barely recognized myself. My hair was braided away from my face and now I am sporting a high forehead along with the braids. I'm still not used to how I look, but the consolation is that I will have to spend very little time or effort to have a neat hairstyle. Earlier in the day, Gila bought me an African beaded necklace. I am proud to say that I have gone African. I was not sure that I would like the braids but a lot of people have commented on it and asked where I had it done.

Finally, we made it to the aquarium. Although not as impressive or large as the one in Toronto, the displays of fish eels, anemones, coral, kelp sharks, manta rays and penguins were beautifully arranged. Sustainability was an important element of many of the displays.

The day had flown by but we had enough time for Gila to buy new comfortable runners before meeting Daniel, Shelley's boyfriend for dinner. We were taken  to a seafood place called Willoughby's. We started with sashimi and sushi and then moved on to the entree. It was a huge pan lined with rice and potatoes and topped with grilled lagostinos, prawns, cray fish and crab served with your choice of lemon butter, garlic butter and a tomato salsa. I have never tasted better shellfish. The meal was rounded out with carafes of wine and heavenly desserts, creme brûlée for Shelley and halva ice cream for Gila and me. The cheque reflected the quality of the meal. Daniel and Shelley wanted to foot the bill but we finally agreed to split it. It was 2400 rands for four people but well worth the cost.We lingered over dinner, Daniel and Gila discussing geography, geology and politics, while he and I compared our type A personalities. What a lovely man he is, generous, attentive and accommodating.

Tomorrow the plan is to drive to Stellenbosch, wine country, with Daniel and Shelley's mother, Brigette joining us. I'm looking forward to tasting South African vintages.

April 9

Our plan was to get going early on our first full day in Cape Town. Afraid I couldn't sleep, I had taken a sleeping pill. For the first time in years, I slept soundly through the night. Shelley was to pick us up at nine. I slept until 8:45 so we did not leave until 10:30. It was hot and sunny so our first stop was a beach. Shelley drove us around the cape on the coastal road that was lined with beaches and playgrounds. Although both of us would have liked to stop, Shelley convinced us that the water would be too cold because we were on the Atlantic side. She was taking us to Fish Hoek, a beach on the warmer Indian Ocean side. On the route we saw posh neighbourhoods terraced on the mountain, evidence of a serious fire three weeks earlier and spectacular views of mountain, bays and beaches.

Fish Hoek Beach was not disappointing. However the warm Indian Ocean was only 16 degrees. The only way you could move forward through the water was to wait until your legs felt numb. I would have liked to go out deeper and actually swim, but it was far too cold. There was a boundary of buoys and nets not too far off the coast. Shelley told us that there had been shark sittings and to keep safe, you had to stay within that boundary. 

We spent two hours relaxing, soaking up the rays and chatting before we were ready for lunch. Shelley took us to a wonderful restaurant right on the beach in Simon's Town. There was a craft market just off the parking lot and singers harmonizing beautifully as they performed well known African songs. The market was filled with stone sculptures, masks, beaded jewelry and bags, and hand painted wooden bowls. Our lunch on the terrace was fantastic and included shandies as well a Baileys type of liqueur made from an African fruit over ice. After our meal we tested the water, still cold but not quite as numbing and walked along the road to Boulders Beach which is part of the National Parks system. As we walked along to boardwalk, we saw the small African penguins. The boardwalk took us right to the ocean edge where we watched the awkward shuffling of the birds on land and their graceful transformation in the water. We also saw penguins taking care of their chicks in nests that were dug into the ground or formed inside of concrete arcs laid out by the park rangers.

We both wanted to move on to the mountains for sunset but by this time it was already 5:00 and we were too late to catch the last cable car up. Instead Shelley took us to the Rhodes Memorial. It is situated up on a hill with an incredible view of Muisenberg and the city. Shelley had mentioned going to the beach at sunset for a picnic, but we were too enthralled by the statues of lions lining the stairs and the spectacular vista of city and mountains to move on before sunset. 

We ended the day at an Italian restaurant just two blocks from our apartment. The food, wine and Italian ice cream desserts were a perfect end to this wonderful day. Both Gila and I think that Shelley is a wonderful person. She seems to understand the experiences we would like to have and is willing to do almost anything to please us. She is very down to earth, open and easy to talk to. She has informed us of the black white divide that still exists as a result of the end of apartheid and the corrupt habits of some of the country's politician. Not only are we seeing the sights but we are also learning a great deal about everyday life here. Now that we have this amazing guard and guide, I can't imagine seeing South Africa without her. 

If the weather is suitable tomorrow we will head out to Robben Island. If not, we will take in some museums. Either way, I can hardly wait.
 

April 7 - 8

I can't believe that I actually made it to South Africa! We have been talking about going for such a long time that up until a few days before the flight, it felt like a hypothetical exercise in planning.

Once both Seders were done, the reality hit and by Monday, I was all set to go, packed, fridge cleaned, house arrangements made. It felt like weeks not hours before our departure. Dark and early, the airport limo picked me up and drove to pick up Gila. We were at the airport by 6:45, but we had to wind our way through numerous lines. First to a departure window, where we were able to change our seats so that we were sitting next to each other, then for a mug shot and finally through American Security where I was forced to take off my runners. Some how, i managed to spain my ankle putting the shoes back on and i ended up limping to the departure gate. By the time we reached the right gate, we were both in desperate need of coffee. Our gate was near Starbucks, but the line up was so long that Gila trekked at least a half mile to locate a Tim Horton's. A little more settled now, we waited to boarding for the short flight to New York. 

In New York, we had to find the terminal for South African Airways and pass through security one more time. By the time we found the right departure point, the plane had already boarded. The flight was very light, giving both Gila and I the luxury of having empty seats around us. This was a marathon flight to Johannesburg and the empty seats provided us with room to stretch out while trying to sleep. We were served lunch with wine an hour into the flight and then the lights were turned off to simulate night at two in the afternoon. I took a sleeping pill in the hope (false as it turned out) that it would knock me out. Gila without any help slept for most of the trip. I watched two movies, neither memorable and tossed and turned even when I stretched out to get some shut eye. An hour prior to landing, the lights went back on and were served breakfast. Local time at landing was 8:00 a.m. My body was telling me that it was 2:00 in the morning.

We had 4 hours to kill before flying on to Cape Town. Some of the time was spent looking for the right terminal and having our bags rechecked. Porters swarmed in the airport and although we insisted that we needed no help, one man grabbed our cart and steered us to the correct check in window. Once he had forced himself upon us, we had no choice but to tip him. It was aggravating. We got new sim cards for our phones, spent a considerable time to get them to work and failed, proving once again that you get what you pay for. The sim card had been a free promotion by Virgin. By now I was too cranky to function and we sat down in a restaurant for coffee. The caffeine and rest helped, but I was in no mood to start shopping. We popped into a few stores as Gila wanted to rectify the phone difficulty and recharge her phone, but I suggested that the departure room would have outlets. I was right, but it turned out that neither of us had the right adaptor. It was a frustrating airport lay over. The Joburg terminal does not have enough room for all the planes so we had to take a bus out to the Tarmac. The flight to Cape Town was less than two hours, but by the time we landed at our final destination, it was after 2:00 p.m. the next day. We had been in transit for 27 hours. Again a porter we did not need attached himself to us, put the baggage on the cart and escorted us out of the arrivals area. I tipped him and then he asked Gila for a tip. We are going to have to be more forceful in refusing help at our next airport experience.

Shelley was waiting for us with a huge sign and before we even left the airport, she had supervised us getting other sim cards as well as a data and talk plan. Both our phones were dead but we stayed until the sales person had recharged both of them and verified that everything worked. Suitably connected we set off to find our apartment. The drive from the airport showed us the full gamut of South African housing, shanty town hovels, government sponsored cookie cutter communities and well to do neighbourhoods. Everywhere we looked there was evidence of security concerns. All houses are behind a locked door or gate. On top of the wall you can see broken shards of glass, electrified lines or metal spikes along the entire length.

Our apartment is small but well equipped and requires a keychain full of keys when leaving the premises. The front door has three different locks and the terrace door has two. There is one additional key for the safe. It is so unlike home where I have no difficulty leaving the house to shop or walk a dog with the doors left unlocked. Even in the car, anything not taken has to be stowed in the 'boot' so thieves are not tempted to break into the car.

I was tired but was afraid that if I took a nap, I would not wake up easily, so we unpacked, walked to the supermarket for breakfast foods and went out for a seafood dinner at a place called the Ocean Basket. Shelley is amazing. She brought us a box of staples for the apartment. She is easy to talk to and seems to understand what we want to get out of this visit. Having Leah put us in touch with Shelley, her best South African friend, will make this visit far more personal and packed with diversions that we could never find if we had come entirely on our own. This trip is going to be an experience of a lifetime.