Gila
was insistent that I correct what she perceives as misinformation. According to
her I was not tired and cranky, I was unreasonable, crazy and had adopted the
Germanic trait of barking out orders. I sense trouble on the horizon, maybe.
Perhaps I need to up my medication to avoid catastrophe.
After
a very late night, it was hard getting going this morning. I woke up at about
7:00 and couldn't fall back asleep. Gila didn't budge, even after the alarm
went off. I let her sleep until 9:30 before I roused her and made breakfast. We
had a list of about 48 things to get done today. We managed three.
We
started by setting out for another street on the U2 subway line near our
apartment. Someone had told us that we could find shops with cheaper SIM cards
there. We did find cheaper cards, but not what Gila wanted. These cards were
only useful in Germany. Since we have wi fi, she can check up on David with
Skype phone calls. Perhaps she could have done without the card altogether, but
if we get separated or distracted or sidelined, the phone is the easiest way to
find one another. When she decided on the card and had it installed, there
still was no signal. Sebastian, the sales clerk assured us that it would be
functional within a half hour so we decided to have lunch, check the phone and
be nearby to return the card if it didn't work. I had been hankering for a
Turkish doner, but we passed some interesting ceramic vases in a window of an
Asian restaurant so we chose to eat there. We ordered one of the specials and
both of us loved the meal. While we were in the area, Gila bought some toe
socks and small gifts from a Tibetan shop. Real German souvenirs! To make sure
everyone at home knows where we have been, we each bought a Berlin bag. Mine is
just utilitarian, but Gila splurged. Hers has a pleasing form, a pocket and a
zipper. Where was this purchased? At the bus stop. We got bored waiting for the
bus.
From
there we headed back to the Hauptbahnhof Tourist office. We bought tickets to
Swan Lake ballet, the Magic Flute opera, a modern dance show and an acrobatic
show. We also got info about an international jazz club and a free philharmonic
symphony. Gila is already cultured. She's trying to round out my arts
education, a little like Professor Higgins and Eliza Dolittle. We will see if
she succeeds. By now it was already four o'clock, too late for a museum,
but too early for the ballet. Very thirsty and hot, we sat down in a cafe to
reorganize. Rather than a hot drink, I asked for iced coffee at the counter. I
guess I was thinking about Tim Horton’s iced cap. The server looked at me as if
I were crazy. Wir haben eiskaffee nur im Sommer. I must have made a pathetic
face, because he tried to console me with a macchiato poured over ice cream mit
Sahne. He succeeded!
We
took the time to relax, regroup and savour the coffee and suddenly it was close
to five. Still too early for the ballet. One step outside and we knew exactly
what we had to do, photograph the most stunning sunset. Amongst the dark clouds
were bursts of brilliant orange, fushia and rose, a backdrop for the cranes
that are renewing the city and the domes that already exist. I finally decided
not to be intimidated by my new camera and we spent the time documenting approaching
dusk. Of course, by this time we had missed our bus and no longer had time for
dinner. All we managed was to buy a couple of oranges in Alexanderplatz.
Amazingly
we found the Deutsche Opera immediately. In fact, the underground entrance is
under the canopy of the building. Like all entertainment venues, there were
merchants about, one selling buttered pretzels, delicious if not a filling
supper. Parts of the ballet were wonderful. The orchestra, orchestral and the
dancers, on toe. The prime dancers were incredible. They moved with such
fluidity that it seemed that they had no bones. The chorus, however was
mediocre at best. The costumes were bright and colorful, but they did not make
up for the less than precise dancing. Not moving in unison was a distraction
instead of an addition to the performance. Wasn't the black swan a female
dancer? In this production it was a male waving triangular shmattas on sticks
behind the scrim. Any resemblance to a black swan was imaginary and only if you
had a vivid imagination. But what do I know? Damn it! I'm a retired teacher,
not a critic. I am the one who is being culturized, but really, does a classy
person take off her shoes, socks and bra in a concert hall? I agree that the
second baloney was hot, but I didn't disrobe in public. Okay she was discrete,
but really!
The
concert hall was huge. Everyone left at the same time. Trying to get coats from
the cloakroom and then into the door of the train was my thrill of the evening
as there were strange hands poking and pushing on a number of my body parts.
When a huge crowd exited at an interchange station, we were able to sit down
and assess any damage or improvement.
Instead
of staying on the train until our stop, we got off at Alexanderplatz. It was
hopping and even better, the doner place was still open. The bodega was run by
Turks. They love their music, especially if it is at maximum decibels. If you
can't beat them, join them. While waiting for our order, we danced to the
music, or rather wiggled our hips. The evening was cool but in order to
preserve a vestige of hearing we ate outdoors. I finally got what my mouth was
watering for. Okay, so it was after midnight and not the most conducive food to
promote sleeping. But it was...wunderbar.
Alexanderplatz at night.
A
trip wouldn't be complete without me steering us in the wrong direction. I
managed to accomplish that too on the way back to the apartment.
Given
our jet lag and late retiring the previous evening, one would think that we
headed straight to bed. One would think. But we hadn't been inside any museums
or galleries and it was time to figure out how to maximize our museum card in
the most efficient manner. What is open Monday? Which locations provide us
entrance with the museum card? We had bookmarked twenty-three sights as must
sees. By 2:30 in the morning, we came to the realization that it wasn't
physically possible to do everything we wanted in the time left. We chose three
galleries in the same area to visit the next day and called it quits. Am I
really going to get up at 8:00 am while on holiday and a Saturday to boot? We
shall see.
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