Nuremberg Day 12

 Despite how tight the cabin seems, we both slept well. I headed to Reception where there is always coffee available. I shouldn't have bothered. It was totally undrinkable. I had left Gila resting in the cabin. I saved a seat for her in the restaurant, but I didn't see her enter. When breakfast was done, a very plentiful buffet, I returned to get my camera and sweater and headed for the bus to Nuremberg. Although she was the last to come, Gila made the bus all on her own. Of course she couldn't find her key card that she needed to get off the boat, but she was there.

Nuremberg was a city Hitler used for rallies and parades. Based on the design of the coliseum, he built a u-shaped structure for troop presentation. It was to have a glass dome but because funds were needed for the war effort, it was never completed. On the Zeppelin Field, another gathering place was built, this time copying the Greek Pergamon. This is where troops would march by the stands filled with dignitaries doing their goose step and sieg heil to Hitler who stood on a stage at one end. When he entered, 130 aircraft searchlights around his platform were angled skyward heightening the drama and importance of the speaker. From another vantage point, we saw the 'coliseum' again. This time it was in front of a mud flat that once used to be a man made lake, placed there so the structure would always be reflected in the water.

                                           

Zeppilinfeld Hitler's Viewing stand

The coliseum was to be part of a conference centre that was never used as such. When Nuremberg was part of the American Zone, it was used to house the US troops. After the American withdrawal, it was turned into a documentation centre about the city during the war. A new entrance with a canopy resembling a sharp arrow was built. The plane of the arrow continued and then was visible exiting the building on the coliseum side. The effect was one of violence. From there we were taken to the Palace of Justice and shown the windows of the courtroom where the Nazis were tried. It is still used as a courthouse in the large complex that includes a prison still in use.

                                           

The Palace of Justice

Now we headed to the old walled town. At one time there must have been water surrounding the fortifications, but today it is dry and looks like a road. We walked through the entrance that originally had a drawbridge and a tunnel like passage way to the next door. We were taken past the castles, churches and convents to the ramparts from where we had an outstanding view of the old town and its background skyscrapers. 

                                   

The view from the old city

The buildings ranged from the first known foundations in 1050, half timber structures to the very wealthy Italianate stone mansions.
                                               

Rock foundation

 Some of the decorations on the buildings included still functioning sun dials. Then we walked back down, seeing the Rathaus, some hotels and the Golden fountain. In the square there was an organic fruit and vegetable market, flowers and most important, a gingerbread establishment.

         

            Sundial ornamentation                                   Organic market

After a little free time to shop, we returned to the ship. As soon as the last passenger embarked, we set sail. I thought Nuremberg was on the Danube. However, it is actually on the Main Danube Canal. The canal has 16 locks to raise (11) and lower (5) the ship over the European continental divide which is marked by a high concrete wall on shore. Our trip will navigate nine of the locks. On either side of the canal, there are flat walking/biking paths. The land along the canal is the most verdant green imaginable despite the vivid colours of the autumn leaves. Any habitations are farms and if they have cattle, you can smell them well in advance. It is a strange feeling having tall walls of a lock on either side and then slowly rising into the sunlight. Before dinner we attended a very interesting lecture about the canal its history and its construction.

                                              

                                                  Safety Drill on the Sound of Music

Lunch was a buffet, but actually resembled a dinner. After lunch, we had a mandatory emergency drill using the life jackets and then the time was our own. This has been the most relaxed day on the trip to date. After a full serviced dinner, there was an oom pah pah musician in lederhosen sporting the biggest mustache I have ever seen. We are in Germany after all. How could a cruise in Bavaria ignore the state anthem and costume?

Just as a note of interest, alcohol has played a big role in this trip. We started by having beer each evening with dinner. Then we started having beer at lunch and wine at dinner. Now, on the cruise, we have unlimited wine or beer as part of the meal. I'm sleeping a lot better with the alcoholic intake on a daily basis. I'm planning a new addition to my diet once I get home.