Happy Canada Day! No one here knows its our national holiday, not even Dov until I reminded him. However lots of people have been wishing me Happy Fourth since the weekend.
I woke up later than i had planned, checked in electronically, repacked, showered and scanned the room to make sure nothing was left behind. I wondered at the start of my visit how so many people could live in this two bedroom apartment. Today I found out. This residence includes the basement consisting of one open area and three more rooms behind the closed doors. With its outdoor space in back, this truly is a very desirable home.
Belongings in hand, I crossed the street. Marissa was moving the car. Dov was up, but really tired. When we got home yesterday he had to walk the dog and then spent considerable time assembling the fan. Bit by bit I have been reading aloud the Holocaust Survivor's memoir that I wrote. I read the final part before packing it up for home and before Marissa left for work. There were also other things Dov had to do so we actually did not set off for Coney Island until about noon. I wasn't sure how much walking I could do at the beach, but given that my feet were still protesting yesterday's activities, less time for strolling seemed like a good thing at this point.
Although the train was local, the ride to the beach was fast. Coney Island is the last stop on the line, but four or five stops earlier it was possible to catch glimpses of the ocean and stretches of sand in between the trees lining the tracks. My reason for going to the beach was strictly nostalgic. It has probably been more than fifty years since i last was here. Once off the train, the whole area had the feel of a cheap carnival, roller coasters, ferris wheels, bungee jumping thrills and shop after shop of beach paraphernalia.
Nothing seemed familiar. That is until we hit the Boardwalk. Suddenly the umbrellas, the crowds, the children digging ditches and building castles, the food stands all awoke a tiny twig of remembrance. I remembered my striped red and blue bathing suit. I remembered looking for intact shells. I remembered carrying bucket after bucket to fill the holes i had dug. Unfortunately, i also remembered the chafing of the sand and the angry sunburn from spending a day on the beach without sunscreen.
It was again so hot in the city that my t-shirt was nothing more than a wet shroud on my body. The breeze from the ocean though was not just refreshing. It was cool and strong enough that I had to hang on to my hat. First stop had to be Nathan's on the Boardwalk. I know I had never eaten there before. My New York family was strictly kosher, but after hearing about it in every reference to Coney Island in American popular culture, a hot dog (with waffle fries and onion rings) was a must. We sat on a bench on the edge of the Boardwalk feeling the wind propelling the mist in the air on our backs. By the way, Nathan's hot dogs are not a disappointment.
The plan was to walk at the water's edge until my feet complained. At first we thought that that would be problematic. Dogs are not allowed on most beaches. Here, however, there was no such restriction. Dov and I took off our shoes and headed to the water. The air may have been cool but the sand was not. It took a number of steps to acclimatize to the heat on the beach. How comforting that walking on the sand was therapeutic. The feel of the warm sand sliding over my toes was a sensuous experience. Although the ground was uneven, I actually walked normally. Balance was finally not an issue. Next time I visit New York in the summer, I will not forget to bring my bathing suit. I would have loved to sit at the water's edge feeling the waves lap my legs. I would have loved standing with my back to the waves and feel them break on my body. I would have loved to linger, taking in more of the sights, sounds and feelings. I am so glad that there will be next times.
Dov was happy that the dog was not banned from the beach, but he was not willing to let her off leash. She seemed afraid of the waves and constantly tried to pull back from the water's edge. But Kaya is a crowd pleaser. As we strolled, lots of children asked if they could pet her and we ended up having a number of conversations with moms and grandmas. Interesting that all the adults complained about being chilled. I thought the wind rendered the weather perfect. What is the ocean without crashing waves and wind?
As we slowly made our way toward Brighton Beach, the demographic of the beach began to change, fewer African Americans, more Russians. Snacks initially were made by Lays or Doritos. Later the treats came in Cyrillic labeled bags. GPS is wonderful and after awhile, Dov determined that we had reached a point where we could easily find a subway station. As we left the beach, a yellow school bus stopped in the circle drive just in front of the sand and let out a group of Orthodox preteens. Beside the skimpy bikinis and miles of exposed flesh, these girls in their stockings, long skirts, long sleeved blouses seemed to come from another planet or another era.
The short walk from the sand to the city was like entering another country. Again, we could feel the searing heat. The buildings had blocked the sea breeze. We were now in Little Odessa. More signs were in Russian than in English. More Russian than English conversation was heard. Russian food was being sold by street vendors. Rather than going directly to the train, we both wanted to see more of this unique area of Brooklyn. The set up was also iconic New York with stores on either side of the road, the elevated tracks and the road beneath the subway. I have seen this scenario in numerous movies and tv shows. I felt like I was part of a film unreeling in front of me. We strolled to the next station to return to the apartment and the heat of the city.
I needed some time to unwind before setting out for the airport and home. Once the travel process begins, I become anxious, edgy and impatient to get going. Today was no exception. Although this has been a fantastic visit, I knew I was driving Dov a little batty with my nerves. I left for the airport a little later than I had planned,, but i knew there was plenty of time and worked hard to relax in the cab to LaGuardia. Josh left on a flight immediately before mine. I was hoping to see him in the waiting area, but by the time I found where it was, the plane was almost entirely loaded.
I think this was the best visit I have ever had with Dov. Both of us have evolved to a point where we are able to be far more tolerant of one another. I know I work hard at minding my own business and not dispensing unasked for advice or recommendations. I have also learned to be present when talking to Dov, not multitasking or surfing the web or playing solitaire. We talk about feelings and ideas rather than filling the space with banal or meaningless words. I love that Dov was able to speak to me freely about things that bothered or concerned him. I am touched at the concern Dov felt about my safe being and comfort. I think we have finally begun to develop an adult relationship.
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