April 11 - 12

My plan was to write about each day's events each evening, but until today I was stuffed up with a cold and extraordinarily tired by the time we got back to our flat. Tonight is the first evening that I have not felt dead on my feet, but now I see that writing every few days will be quite enough.

One of the interesting customs(?) is to pay someone to watch your car when you park on the beach. At intersections there are many African Nationals begging for money either for themselves or for some cause. Even walking down the street you are constantly approached to buy some craft or make a donation. These people are very insistent and you must provide a very firm no to stop them.

Saturday, April 11, Daniel and Shelley's mom Brigid joined us for a tour of wineries in Stellenbosch. It was another perfect day in terms of weather. We left at eight in the morning so our plan was to stop for breakfast on the road. Daniel was headed for the Hillcrest Berry Farm. The site overlooking the planted grape vines was beautiful and we chose to eat outside on the terrace. Waffles were served with sugared water instead of maple syrup but the addition of a fruit compote and ice cream made up for it. Although the food was wonderful, the service surprisingly was not.

Then we visited Delheim for wine testing. Truth be told, it does not take a lot of wine to make me tipsy. After tasting three whites (I especially liked Chenin Blanc) a rose and two reds I was more than just a bit light headed. The plan had been to visit a number of wineries, but given how I felt after six tastings, I would have had to be carried to the car if I had anymore. Instead we visited a brandy distillery. The reception/tasting area was like a men's club in an English manor, high back leather armchairs and sofas. 

By now, we were hungry for lunch and Daniel drove us to a highly touted winery for lunch. We were disappointed that the kitchen had already closed and were directed the the deli for food. As soon as I ate it, picnic style, it not sit well in my stomach, but now we determined to to watch sunset on a beach. We arrived at Noordehoek just in time to see the change of colours as the sun sank into the sea. Daniel is very knowledgeable about both geography and geology and was able to point out where the limestone turned into sandstone. There is something primeval in the sound of the surf crashing. Add the families spending time together and dogs running through the sand, for an almost idyllic evening. 

The way back to Cape Town was on a very windy road. All along, my stomach was queasy and I kept swallowing to keep the bile down, but without any warning, I began to throw up. Daniel pulled over but not before I had made a mess of both my clothing and the car. The feeling that a serious cold was coming on certainly did not help. How embarrassing! 

Because I was not well, we planned on a late pick up on Sunday morning. We used the time to visit a pharmacy looking for something to relieve my cough and stuffy nose. The pharmacist was very helpful. When I asked for cough syrup, he checked if I was on any hypertension medication before suggesting something. It was still before before coffee so we stopped at a place called 65 on Main for coffee and breakfast. Ironically the coffee was instant but in her desperation for caffeine, Gila drank two cups.

We got back at the flat just as Shelley arrived. The plan was to drop us off at a beach on another picture perfect day while Shelley took the car to detail it due to my unfortunate accident the night before. Is there a beach in this city that is not breathtaking? Camp Bay Beach was in a small inlet and protected the Lion Head Mountain. The area where we parked ourselves was surrounded by boulders. The sight and sound of the waves crashing against the rocks was the perfect backdrop for the children playing and digging in the pools left with each surge of waves. Gila enjoyed herself taking photographs and sketching the surf. I tried to read but the brightness of the sun was too invasive and the constant coming and going of Africans selling water, ice cream, jewelry, hats, painted bowls and carved ebony tv type tables was too distracting. I was not feeling well and just chilling on the beach was a stressless way to pass a few hours.

When Shelley arrived with a clean car, we crossed the street to eat in an Italian restaurant, lovely service once again, and then we headed off to Kirstenbosch, the botanical garden. Each place we have visited is more breathtaking than the previous one. Beautiful expanses of grass separated the groves of native trees and plants ponds and birds. Purple flowers seemed to predominate, but the trees were most amazing. Walking among the trees was like being in an enchanted forest. I almost expected to see the Disney castle in the next clearing. The trunks and branches twisted and spread out like bony witch's fingers. It was only the clear blue sky that dissipated any sense of dread.

The most memorable part of the park was the tree canopy walkway. Although it was man made, it blended beautifully with the nature it it carried you through. The walkway consisted of thin wooden slats curving it's way through the tree tops.the curvature was mirrored in the rails on either side. There was a slight tremor caused by the those strolling on the walkway, but not enough to trigger my fear of heights. It was a short visit, but provided the weather is good, we will return Wednesday evening to watch the screening of Monty Python and the Meaning of life.

The first restaurant we went to for dinner was extraordinarily noisy with a throbbing electronic beat accompanying the sounds of people talking. So we moved to a hotel a block away for a quiet, sedate and elegant South African dinner. Gila had springbok and I tried the kingklip, a native white fish. Delicious!!!

In the time that we have been here, I have noticed impeccable service in almost every restaurant. Every staff member has waited on the tables with the most welcoming smile. Someone comes by regularly to check if you are happy with your food or want anything else. With the exception of Hillcrest Berry Farm, staff has been most accommodating and attentive. The other thing that I have noticed, is the beauty of so many of the African Nationals, both male and female. Their skin is ebony in colour and offset by dazzling white smiles. The braiding of the hair, the warmth of the eyes, the fluidity of the gait are so very enchanting. The white South African women are also very becoming, but in my eyes, they seem to lack the grace of the black women.

I was wrong. I don't seem to be able to summarize our days several at a time. Our Monday and Tuesday itinerary will follow when I am less tired.