May 1

May 1
For our first ride we were up at 5:15, early but not very bright. We had coffee in the bar area where photos of animals in the bush were flashed on a digital screen. I gulped my coffee, eager to get out to see and photograph my first animals. Our vehicle was a stretch Land Rover with no windows or even sides for that matter with three banks of seats behind the driver/guide. Each bench could seat three but because we were only six, each of us could sit at an open side to watch for the animals without obstruction. The tracker, Richard sat on a jump seat attached to the front grill of the vehicle. Lawrence our guide was the driver.

I had assumed that the Land Rover would just drive along the paths, as Jimmy did when he brought us to River Lodge and we would see the animals that happened to be there. Was I ever wrong! The guide and tracker actually track the animals. As the vehicle moves along the path both men watch the ground for paw prints and the direction in which they are heading. They look at the dung on the road to see how fresh it is. They look at the branches of the trees to see if any have been broken. They even smell the air. From time to time both men get out of the vehicle to follow tracks. In this way they determine which way to proceed to follow animals may be in the area. They do not hesitate to go off road if it means finding an animal. Finally, all the guides are in contact with one another by radio. If someone has seen evidence of an animal or has actually spotted one, he radios the others with the location, especially if it is one of the big five, elephant rhino, Cape buffalo, lion or leopard. The cooperation benefits all who are on a game drive.

On our first drive we saw a number of animals, but I was disappointed with the cooperation level of some of the animals. A few of them, like the jackal and gray dunker ran so quickly, we could only catch a brief glance. Others like the kudu and water buck grazed in the bush and were well camouflaged as their coats and horns blended into the landscape. The elephant and the giraffe tried to hide behind trees. Only the Cape buffaloes made themselves very obvious. We came across an entire herd, males, females and calves on the move. As we approached, they crossed the road right in front of us and carried on as if we were not there watching. We marvelled at the curled off white horns of the males. They looked like the perruques the judges in the British court system wear. Those chewing on the grass resembled jurists pondering some evidence or decision. The impalas were so plentiful that after a while, we didn't even stop for them. We were blase. It's only another impala became our mantra.

Halfway through the ride, we found ourselves stopped in an opening in the bush. Richard and Lawrence jumped out first and in a matter of minutes had flipped up the front grill of the Rover, covered it with a cloth and laid out freshly brewed coffee and cookies for us to enjoy. We now had the opportunity to stretch our legs, compare impressions and photographs, have a snack and use the first class facilities behind the trees and bushes around us. That prompted one of the guests to comment that all the bush was a toilet.

When our morning ride ended, we were greeted with hot face cloths to clean our hands. Our breakfast orders were taken and again we discussed the highlights of the morning. Before our made to order eggs appeared we were able to help ourselves to the yogurt, fresh fruit and muffins on the buffet. As we made our way to the table the velvet monkeys also took advantage of the convenience of the buffet. Someone always lagged behind to shoo the monkeys away. Breakfast was anything but rushed. We enjoyed the meal and exchanged histories and other adventures in other parts of the world, before we went our own way to amuse ourselves until lunch at 2:30.

The two couples we had 'safaried' with left for Billy's Lodge (the other Ezulwini site). after breakfast and we met the new visitors J and MJ from California. MJ was the Chair of the Board of Directors of a progressive private school while J was a semi retired lawyer. J. was a charming man with a biting sense of humour. Gila recounted how she had purchased a new camera that she ended up not liking after she got sand into the lens of the Lumix she had bought specifically for this trip. He didn't let any opportunity when he could rib her about improving her camera and photographs with sand. His wife was knowledgeable but opinionated. She seemed to relish contradicting whatever Jay said. They joined us on the afternoon ride at 4:00.



Just as in the morning, there was a refreshment/bathroom break during the afternoon drive. This time there was no coffee served but instead what was called a sundowner, an alcoholic beverage chosen during lunch with munchies. Sundowner was a very apt name for this stop as we could watch the progress of the setting sun as we sipped gin and tonic, beer or wine. As the sun dropped on the horizon, the sky magically transformed from yellows and oranges, to fiery reds and just as the sun fell from sight, to a deep crimson red. When we continued on our ride it was dark and the tracker shone a bright spotlight back and forth along the road. When we came upon any animals, the tracker shone the light on the scene without eliciting any reactions at all.

On our return we were again welcomed with hot face cloths and a shot of a different liqueur concoction every night and given some time to clean up before dinner by candle light. Dinner was not just a meal but also another opportunity to socialize with the other Ezulwini guests. When we finally left the table at about 10:00 we were too tired to do anything but sleep to ensure that we would be on time for the next early morning game ride.

Ezulwini means paradise. The lodges are well named. By the end of each day with the attentive service, the scrumptious meals and the privilege of viewing these magnificent beasts of the bush, it felt very much like we had found ourselves in a corner of an African paradise.